by Tow Itch Wed 06 Jul 2011, 5:08 pm
Dear All
I've just noticed the very same product mentioned on the Yahoo Dandy forum.
The person there recommended it for use in fixing the bed frames.
Either they are a seriously skilled practitioner in using this stuff or I'm a complete numpty, or possibly both.
It works, it most definitely works, but you need to use a lot of heat, oxy,acetylene kit, a large Bulfinch torch or heat
maintenance from a surplus gas ring.
I practised on a piece that was about 15mm x 5mm in section and just about got it hot enough by juggling two propane gas torches.
When it goes it goes. No guides from coating nearby with soap and it going black. All of a sudden the aluminium goes from solid
to virtually liquid. Very easy to run out of hands manipulating though it obviously would improve with practise.
The join I made was very strong, only failing after throwing the bracket across a car park a couple of times. Notionally the join
is stronger than the metal, but mine failed at the joint I think I had failed to gain a full width repair and the break was
basically a peel from a non jointed point. Fantastic things are possible. There is a (German?) guy who travels to a lot of car
shows demonstrating this stuff and doing numerous joints and forming small bits of threaded stud onto flat bar etc.
If I remember the science correctly it isn't welding at all it's called hard soldering. So I imagine that there is a layer of this
that provides the bonding, but in relation to the aluminium I believe it's that the major component of the rod (Nickel?) breaks
down the chemistry of the aluminium oxide allowing a lower temperature melt.
I must dig out the instructions.
I would try most other ways to fix the frame.
Was it all done the wrong way initially? If Lotus build Elises with aluminium that is glued and riveted perhaps that is superior.
N.B. Caution Welding Porn: If your out and you pass an aluminium framed motorcycle. Look at the regularity of the welding and consider that the people who do this would not most probably be considered as a skilled welder. Yet this is absolutely perfect, compare this to late sixties and early seventies steel framed m/cs where everyone was convinced all Japanese welders could do was produce "Pigeon Sh1*"