Help! Can someone tabulate the figures below they are a bit cramped together.
It seems there has been a bit of a spate of Folding Campers losing wheels. At least two of these have been Dandy Destinys/6s.
It may also be that some were recently serviced.
I saw the old chestnut hawked around elsewhere that if you replace wheels then you should check the nuts after a number of miles so the fitter is not liable. Maybe so and checking is always good but lets look at some other reasons.
There does seem to be an opinion about the nature of auto reverse combining to make trailers with not fully released handbrakes easy to push. The slightly on brake then heats up the drum and the heating and cooling cycle helps to undo the nut. For whatever reasons this tends to happen on the near side.
I spoke to Indespension about the problem as well.
Now the chappie I spoke to at Indespension didn't cover this possibility.
I did ask about the type of studs and expected all studs to be of the rear insertion type rather than the screw in form, as thinking it over that is all I've ever seen on wheels. Apparently hubs are now produced with screw in studs. Now while that gives me the willies it doesn't apply to the age of stuff we're using which is all rear insert.
The other thing that was covered was torque settings for wheels. I don't know what size studs are used on the larger 13" wheels but the 10" wheels only use 3/8" studs very easy to over torque with windy guns.
It's a bit hard to ask non technical people to look at stud ends and asses how they broke but there can often be visual differences between an over torqued stud that has snapped and a stud that has been broken by a flapping wheel. The flapping will tend to bruise a stud and the break will be further out a sheered stud between the drum and where the nut would have been. I've not allowed for the thread stripping and the wheel subsequently striking the stud as I assume a stripped thread would have been noticed at the time.
Indespension's Listed Torque Settings
Nuts lbft NM
3/8" 42 57
7/16" 50 67
1/2" 56 76
5/8" 85 115
M12 55 74
M14 60 81
Now I have seen some claims that aluminium wheels need higher torques. This is stated as for a number of reasons from aluminium's different rate of thermal expansion onwards. If you have alloys and get an answer from a reliable source please post and illuminate us.
One final thing if checking and tightening wheels.
If you take the wheels off just clean the threads (wire brush in drill, whatever) a low torque thread lock may be used. N.B. See "Filling The Gap" in a subsequent post Never, never, never grease or "copperslip" the threads. It changes the nature of any torque setting but more importantly it makes the nuts or bolts likely to unscrew. Copperslip is used on things where the need is to reliably fasten and unfasten an Item and that is the major consideration. Coperslip is not used on items where being securely bolted down is the primary concern.
Though if you have alloys do feel free to put copperslip on the face between the wheel and the drum. This stops electrolytic action welding the alloy wheel to the drum.
Last edited by Tow Itch on Tue 14 May 2013, 10:37 pm; edited 3 times in total