ChrisP wrote:I assumed that I would would sacrifice the settee function. With the extra height, I suppose I could make the box for the 1/2 bed higher and add a back cushion and sit on the other side. I find the settee a bit low and the lip that makes the bed hinge gets uncomfortable after a while.
I had not really thought about the vents getting drenched though. I am mostly on a hookup, its probably only twice a year that I am somewhere where I run the fridge on gas. I could install a 2-way and for those two trips, I could just use my existing fridge, or even just make do without the fridge.
I thought this was a really original idea and thought through some issues but didn't consider the seat as a problem. I have a Designer where someone boxed in the wheel arch on the bed side to allow a transit for cables between the front and rear seat boxes. Admittedly a foot high box say six inches deep might look odd but it could be hinged to provide storage and it does stop the perennial issue of stepped on wheel arches denting.
Agree with you about the lip being uncomfortable. As you're rebuilding everything you could look at a later Dandy to see if you could fashion the post 95 method of hinging the bed?
Three way fridge: A hinged or pocketed cover for travel and not cool en route? A hinged or pocketed cover that was say 2" deep with no top or bottom to deflect air. How big a gap do the vents need? A permanent cover with a 2" or 2
1/
2" gap. A redesigned gas box that terminates 2
1/
2" from the body.
Do the removeable pin trick for the door.
I guess even though you are relatively young you could look at gas struts for the beds as they are a pain when hinging higher up.
The real stumbling block is the awning you'd need to get it lengthened both the PVC and 3 longer metal poles. (2 actually the centre would do one of the sides) I'd suggest zip out sides because of the extra weight. You would also need to pack a set of steps because of the height)
Why not phone Ian saying you need to rebuild your Dandy and see if he sees any reason why you shouldn't increase the height. He might be able to advise on the bed hinges.
Certainly Dandys have been completely rebuilt Cazz, Wayne and I looked at one near Bolton in 2011.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] This really does need to be seen.
It,s a 4/5 as stated.
The roof, the front and back walls the suspension units and the hitch are probably the only original major components.
The new PVC walls are a light grey blue.
The inside is a lot tidier than the pictures suggest there are some nicks in the vinyl upholstered bars at the side of the beds, but generally quite tidy. The beds and the pad for the top of the storage box have been re upholstered, unfortunately it was probably a better colour match when the PVC was brown. The transfer material on the tub walls is not scraped. The "Rub Off" of the paint on the metal spar on the right is from movement in transit of the kitchen unit.
Sorry the bed bases and walls to the side of are original but have been painted
The major strength of this unit is that the whole of the tub has been re built.
Not just the woodwork but the steel as well. This new chassis also being in 3mm walled steel not 1.5mm? (1.6? original tube wall
thickness) This looks to have been painted with smothrite.
The rear light clusters are also new.
In many ways what you are buying is a new unit.
Downsides. Not the best colour combination of cream and brown tub sides, deep burgundy doors (painted) and blue grey PVC sides.
Suspension and brakes: While no point in replacing functional units. these must be at least 30 years old, for this must be a very early 4/5 as it still has rod brakes. If the primary advantage of the unit is it's perceived longevity then what happens when the most likely units to fail do so? Going with a new hitch and going to unbraked units is one option. I'm not sure if the backplates can be grafted onto a stub axle? Also when the units are replaced it will be a grind off weld on or weld on studded plates, because as per original these suspension units are welded on.
Woodwork: If spending so much on steelwork why re fit with OSB board rather than ply?. Painting on side could do with a clear sealer soon before deterioration.
Electrics a RCD fitted with twin double sockets. Believed to be working but not tested by myself. No hook up cable as non was supplied with their new Dandy. No 12v fitments.
Cooker a very tidy free standing unit that will I think fit on the plinth within the Dandy. I didn't test this.
The owners preferred to cook in the awning or outside.
Awning. The awning was not offered with the Dandy it would be available separately. Whether that mean that the price would be reviewed sympathetically on sale to you or not I don't know. I do know I'd negotiate before bidding on the Dandy. He sold a separate awning a short while ago and stated he got £175 quite quickly. To be fair there was an issue why he might want to sell separately. He stated that there always appeared to be surplus PVC at the side of the awning when joined to the Dandy, I don't know if this is common with full width awnings or not?
To summarise this Dandy is unique, that is both it's largest positive and biggest negative. In my own deeply sexist manner I believe it will preclude most sales where a female has part of the purchase decision. After you have purchased a decent hook up cable your deep into £700 or £750 plus territory. You could have all sorts of Brown Dandys for that money with gas heaters possibly winterised. If your lucky you might pick up a blue for less than £100 more? Now with regards to solidity this rebuilt may well be the better package.
For someone this is a cracking unit, it's just finding the right someone.
That's life you will pay your money and no doubt make the wrong choice.
Quote from
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Obviously we would love pictures if you go ahead with this but please keep us up to date whatever you decide. we may be able to help if you think you have hit insurmountable problems.
Home
