I need to replace my dandy tyres before they cause me a problem.
Currently i have 5.20-10 tyres on which are branded Camac, what alternative can i put on my wheels?
Thanks
Shaun
Dandy Trailer Tent / Folding Camper Enthusiasts. Dandy Trailer Tent/Folding camper the best for all year camping
Tightening Wheels
The fastener industry and automobile industry emphasise that wheel nuts and studs must never be even remotely tightened by rattle guns (impact wrenches). The final tightening must only be done by using a high quality torque wrench of known accuracy - and to the vehicle manufacturer's specified amount only. They must then be rechecked and tightened further if necessary after 50-100 km, and again after 1000 km. But any number of tyre fitters 'know better' and use only rattle guns.
Be aware that rattle guns are very prone to overtightening - and that is counter-productive. This is because excess tension may stretch the stud to the point where its diameter is reduced whilst under such high over-tension - and thus increasing interthread spacing. In far from unknown extreme cases it may result in the stud eventually cracking and/or sheering off.
If a lubricant is used (and most authorities recommend against it) the tightening torque must be reduced by about 20%. Anti-seize materials must never be used for any but totally static applications. This is because one of their intended roles is to ease undoing.
Follow this sequence:
1. Clean the threads thoroughly and ensure the nuts spin freely, by hand alone, along the stud's full threaded length. Discard any that do not, and never use a nut or stud that is or has been corroded. The studs and nuts need to be totally clean, dry, and unlubricated.
2. Locate the wheel on the studs and finger-tighten using a diagonal sequence. Give the wheel a few wriggles to allow it to locate correctly.
3. Tighten the wheel nuts progressively and working diagonally.
4. Use a torque wrench for the final tightening. Torque only to the vehicle maker’s specifications. Do not exceed specified tightness. The only too common belief that more is better has no foundation.
5. Recheck after 50 km, and after a further 100 km. If further retightening is needed there is a very real possibility that whatever is being clamped is under-engineered and is progressively bending. (This occurred with the U-bolt axle clamping plates on early OKAs (including our own). If so this needs to be addressed as a matter of urgency by an engineer.
If really concerned about loosening apply Loctite 290 after the final bedding down.
Insist on that torque wrench being used. Many mechanics wrongly believe they can ‘feel’ correct tension. They cannot. Personally observed research showed that over half of 300 (tested) experienced mechanics failed to gauge wheel nut tightness by plus or minus 30%. Some were out by up to 50%. Hardly any could repeat settings reliably within plus/minus 15%.
Insist beforehand that that you need the final tightening to be to the vehicle maker’s specifications and by a calibrated torque wrench. Never allow a ‘rattle gun’ to be used for final tightening as there is a very real risk of over serious overtightening. As noted in the main text, this increases the stretch, and may narrow the thread diameter, thus increasing the thread gap.
Ideally, have your own high quality torque wrench and insist on doing the final tightening yourself (I always do this).
This article was originally written and published around 2004. It is updated here (in mid 2012).
The need for shock absorbers on trailers is now more widely recognised - but many makers still believe their products are immune to the more fundamental Laws of Physics. And mechanics seriously overestimate their ability to tighten, correctly and consistently, by 'feel'.
And never, ever, use an anti-seize product for other than the static applications for which it is intended.
Collyn Rivers
ShaunJUK wrote:My thoughts were that if I am changing them then I might aswell upgrade, I am now however thinking just replace like for like?
Helen wrote:ShaunJUK wrote:My thoughts were that if I am changing them then I might aswell upgrade, I am now however thinking just replace like for like?
We went like for like because it was the most straightforward option with our recessed wheels and proved to be fairly simple.
Helen wrote:I ordered mine from indespension.com, telephone 0845 3 720 720. John's at work at the moment but I will see if he can dig out the part no's tomorrow for you Shaun
jake001 wrote:I would hate to disagree with our technical expert, but I think that you will find that the load rating is per wheel not per axle. How would you rate a 3 wheeler
1) The title is Technical Researcher I'm nobodys expert.I would hate to disagree with our technical expert
jake001 wrote:I would hate to disagree with our technical expert, but I think that you will find that the load rating is per wheel not per axle. How would you rate a 3 wheeler
I'd taken the tyre load index of 69 looked at the mass it relates to 325Kg and doubled it to 650Kg to get the limit of the tyres for the axle or trailer.Tyres those tyres have a load index of 69 so the axle is only good for 650kg with those. We want at least 750Kg
|
|